P3fff 



&? 



03 

1 K 



THE 



CULTURE OF THE 



GRAPE: 









BY J1FISK ALLEN 



EMBRACING 

DIRECTIONS FOR THE TREATMENT OF THE VINE, IN THE NORTHERN 

STATES OF AMERICA, IN THE OPEN AIR, AND UNDER GLASS 

STRUCTURES, WITH AND WITHOUT ARTIFICIAL HEAT. 



BOSTON: 

DUTTON AND WENTWORTH, PRINTERS, 

CONGRESS STREET. 

1847. 



s 






INTRODUCTION 



Theke are several works published in England, 
written by practical men, giving ample directions for 
the cultivation of the grape in that country ; but the 
climate of the Northern States of America is so differ- 
ent from that of England, that, however well calculated 
these directions may be for the latter, they can hardly 
be expected to suit the former. The temperature of 
England is milder, and is not subject to the great ex- 
tremes of heat and cold which we experience. The 
searching northwesterly winds, which prevail with us 
in New England in the winter and early spring months, 
with the mercury often at zero, and even below that 
point, and the sudden changes we are liable to, in this 
season of the year, often equal to forty degrees in 
a few hours, render the care requisite, for the success- 
ful forced culture of fruit, very great, and the process 
a more difficult one, in this country, than in England. 

Do not build a grapery under the erroneous impres- 
sion, that, having done so, and planted the vines, you 
have secured to yourself, without further labor, a boun- 
tiful supply of fruit ; if you do so, you must be sadly 
disappointed. 

Probably there is no plant so sure of yielding an 
annual crop as the grape, under right management; 
but this is absolutely necessary, to ensure success. 



4 INTKODUCTION. 

The attempt has been made to give plain rules, 
which may be easily understood, and the practical 
operation of which can be carried out with as little 
labor as the proper cultivation of the grape, under 
glass, will permit. 

The following directions are intended for those who 
may desire to cultivate this fruit, for their own pleasure 
or convenience, and do not wish to incur the expense 
of a regularly educated gardener, and who have felt 
the want of a concise and simple explanation of the 
process, and the rules by which these operations of 
forcing and of growing grapes, under glass structures, 
can be carried out. 

The treatment recommended is such as has been 
found to be the best, after many years' experience, in 
its cultivation ; during which time, the different systems 
of pruning have been all tried, and many of the vine- 
yards in France, and on the Rhine, in Italy, and other 
countries have been visited, and the manner of pruning, 
the varieties of soil, and the amount of fruit which a 
vine is permitted to ripen, have been examined and 
ascertained. 

The disadvantages we labor under, in this country, 
in forcing fruit, from the extreme coldness of the 
weather in winter, are counterbalanced, in some de- 
gree, by the superior brilliancy of the sun, and conse- 
quent dryness of the atmosphere, at the time of 
ripening, which gives a flavor to the fruit, such as it can 
rarely be made to attain, in the moist, dull, and cloudy 
weather of England. The variations of the temperature 
are always indicated by a Fahrenheit thermometer. 



THE 



CULTURE OF THE GRAPE 



THE GRAPERY. 



First in order, and of the utmost importance, is the 
situation of the house. It must be so located, that 
stagnant water will not remain on the border, or within 
reach of the roots of the vine. 

If you cannot avoid building the house where water 
is found to stand two or three feet under the surface, 
then the soil should be thrown out, the whole length 
and breadth of the border, eighteen inches deep, and 
the bottom paved, with stone or brick, so as effectually 
to prevent the roots penetrating through it, to the 
water. Make the border on this, as directed hereafter ; 
this will raise the top of the soil eighteen inches above 
the level of the adjoining surface. 

The house should front the south ; a slight varia- 
tion, provided it is to the east, so as to receive the 
morning sun, will be no objection.* 

The common lean to house is the best for forcing ; 
from thirteen to fifteen feet high on the back, four 

* Cultivators of the grape have usually advised this position for the 
front of the house ; several persons, who have had practical experience, 
would prefer that it should front south ten or fifteen degrees east, or even 
south southeast. 



6 CULTUKE OF THE GEAPE. 

feet on the front, and twelve feet wide on the inside, 
are suitable proportions ; the length of it can be as 
desired, from twenty to one hundred feet, or more. 

The front of the house should be framed, the sills 
standing on, and secured to, stone, or locust posts, set 
four or five feet under ground, and eight feet apart, 
thus giving the roots freedom to roam at their pleas- 
ure. The floor of the house should be on a level with 
the surface of the border. The back wall may be 
either of brick or wood. If the house is to be used 
for forcing fruit, it should have a double wall on the 
back. A span-roofed house is the best for a cold 
grapery. It should be, above the sills, on all sides of 
glass, and of the following dimensions : — twenty feet 
wide, and of any length desired; the upright sides 
above the sills, six feet high ; the rafters should be 
twelve feet long; this will make the height of the 
house, at the ridge-pole, or centre, on the inside, four- 
teen feet. The sills must be secured to stone, or locust 
posts, placed eight feet apart, and sufficiently deep in 
the soil to be free from danger of being thrown by the 
frost. Place the house fronting south southeast. You 
may plant three sets of vines, — one in the centre, and 
one on each side. Upon a house of this description, 
the sun's rays will rest from morning until evening, 
and the crop will come rapidly to maturity. 

PEEPAEATION OF THE BOEDER. 

The border should be twenty feet wide, for each set 
of vines, — if thirty feet, the better, — and two and a 
half or three feet deep ; if you have but little room, 



CULTURE OF THE GKAPE. 7 

you can manage to grow very fair grapes with twelve 
feet of border ; but, in this case, you must not plant 
the vines so close together. The following course is 
recommended in preparing the border : — 

If the soil is a good loam, begin at one end and 
trench it ; mark off ten feet the entire width ; throw 
out the soil two feet deep ; if bones, or the carcases 
of animals can be had, cover the bottom well with 
them; if these are not readily procured, slaughter- 
house manure may be substituted ; mark off ten feet 
more of the border, and cover this manure with part 
of the soil from it ; upon this, put an inch or two of 
oyster shells, or old lime rubbish, mixed with broken 
bricks ; over this, put some soil from the border ; then 
a good covering of cow manure ; upon this, a slight 
covering of loam again, followed with a good portion 
of oyster shells, or the substitute; and over this, a 
thick covering of stable manure, well rotted; finish 
with a covering of the loam. The whole length is to 
be made in this manner, in alternate spaces of ten feet 
each trenching. After it is finished, the border should 
be three feet six inches deep ; it will settle to less than 
three feet in a few months ; any soil left, after it is 
finished, can be carried off. 

The proportions recommended for this border, are 
one half loam, one fourth bones, or other strong ma- 
nure, one eighth oyster shells, or lime and brick rub- 
bish, and one eighth rotten stable manure. 

Before planting the vines, the border should be 
spaded over, to mix well the top substances, being- 
careful not to disturb the strong manures at bottom. 



8 CULTUEE OF THE GRAPE. 

Should the soil be poor, decrease the proportion used 
in preparing the border, and, in the same ratio, increase 
the manures, or substitute the top soil of a loamy 
pasture. 

If the soil is very poor, or unsuitable for the pur- 
pose, so as to require to be removed entirely, then a 
compost prepared thus, is recommended : — one half to 
be the top soil of an old pasture ; one quarter to be 
bones, or some other strong manure ; one eighth oys- 
ter shells, or lime and brick rubbish ; one eighth rotten 
manure; these articles thrown together in a heap, and 
so to remain until decomposed and amalgamated, when 
they should be placed in the border, and thrown loosely 
together. 

If it is intended to plant vines, to be trained on the 
back wall, the soil on the inside of the house must be 
prepared, as directed above. 

If figs are to be planted, the same border is rec- 
ommended. 

Peaches do not require a rich border, and for them 
the natural soil will be suitable. 

To improve a poorly made, or exhausted border, in 
a house already built, where the vines do not suc- 
ceed well, the following process is recommended as 
best adapted to cure the original defect : — 

In the spring, have the border covered with two or 
three inches of lime rubbish, or oyster shells ; let this 
be forked into, and well mixed with, the soil ; after 
this, have the whole border covered, two feet deep, 
with fresh stable manure, — the newer the better; the 
object being to cause a strong heat above the roots of 



CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 9 

the vine, thus drawing them to the surface. This 
should remain on the border two months, when it may 
be removed. It is probable, the young roots will have 
penetrated the border, and be growing in the under 
part of the manure ; if so, these must not be injured, 
for if they should, the benefit expected from the opera- 
tion would be lost ; when it is found that this is the 
case, that part of the manure must remain on. After 
removing the manure, the border should have a top 
dressing of three or four inches of well decomposed 
cow or hog pen manure. 

PLANTING- THE VINES. 

In planting, which is the next operation, open a 
hole sufficiently wide to admit of the roots being spread 
out to their entire length ; care must be taken to spread 
out all the roots separately, without injury to the small 
ones, and do not let them overlay or interfere with each 
other; make the soil fine, and cover them with an 
inch or two of it ; with a rose watering-pot, settle the 
soil and roots, by giving them a thorough watering; 
finish covering, and do not water them again. They 
should be planted about three inches under the sur- 
face, and three feet apart ; if the border is only twelve 
feet wide, five feet is near enough. If the house has 
been built on posts, as directed, let the head of the 
vine, after planting, be three inches from the front, on 
the inside, — the roots being on the outside. If the 
vines are planted in the fall, they should be cut back 
to three eyes immediately ; but, if planted in the spring, 
2 



10 CULTUEE OF THE GRAPE. 

they must be allowed to grow until the shoots are one 
inch long, when rub off all but the three lower shoots. 

VINES FOR PLANTING. 

The vines for planting should be in pots, and one or 
two years old ; before planting, they should be kept quite 
dry a few days, as the roots are more easily separated. 

If the plants are growing, leave off watering them 
until they begin to droop, when you can plant them 
out ; the risk of injuring them will be lessened, and 
the free watering, after the roots are spread out, will 
immediately settle them in their position, and they 
will grow rapidly. 

If grown on the place, or to be obtained near, young 
plants, in pots, just rooted, can be used. Turn them 
out with the ball of earth entire, and plant, without dis- 
turbing the roots, on the inside, near the front of the 
house. I have planted such vines, and they have come 
into bearing as soon as older ones ; they are to be pre- 
ferred to old vines, as the latter are very much injured 
in transplanting, if they have been growing in the open 
border ; if in pots, the roots are so matted together, 
that, in separating them, many will be broken off. 

TREATMENT OF THE VINES. 

First Year. 

The first year, they should not be forced, but allowed 
to push naturally as the season advances. 

In the vicinity of Boston, they will push then buds 
early in April ; let the shoots from the three eyes grow 



CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 11 

until they are two or three feet long ; train up the 
leading one to the roof, and stop the other two, by 
pinching off the end of each ; the leading cane must 
be stopped, when it reaches the top of the rafters ; 
the vine will be strengthened, by allowing it to 
make a free growth ; after September, stop all shoots 
as they push, that the vine may the better ripen the 
wood. 

Early in the spring, throw open the house and give 
air freely, continuing to do so during the season, when 
the mercury is above freezing ; it is best to shut up 
the house at night, leaving one or two lights a little 
open, to let the moisture escape. 

After the leaves have fallen, which will be in Octo- 
ber, or early in November, cut back the two spurs to 
one eye, or bud, each, and the long cane to two eyes. 
If any insect has been troublesome, wash the vines, 
carefully, with soap suds, moderately strong. The first 
of December, protect the vines for the winter, by a 
covering of straw, or Russia mats ; the border must 
also be covered with seaweed, or coarse Utter, to pro- 
tect the roots from frost. This completes the man- 
agement for the first year. 

Second Year. 

The second year, as the spring advances, and the 
power of the sun increases, open the windows and 
doors of the house to let the heat escape, and to pre- 
vent the vines bursting their buds, shutting up again 
before night ; do not hasten the pushing of the vines, 
but rather keep the house cool until the tenth of April, 



12 



CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 



A 










A, is the vine after it has been cut back at planting. 

B, shows it at the end of the first year. 

C, shows it cut back at the fall pruning of the same year. 

D, the end of the second year. 

E, at the end of the second year, cut back for fruiting. 

F, at the end of the third summer. 

G, the end of the third summer, cut back. 

If the spurs become too long in a few years, you must allow one of the 
shoots, that are constantly pushing on the back wood of them in the spring, 
to grow, and, at the fall pruning, cut back to it. 



CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 13 

when it will be best to uncover them ; promote a free 
circulation of air in bright weather ; give some venti- 
lation on cloudy days ; shut up the house before the 
sun sets. About the middle or last of May, the four 
eyes will have grown, each, one or two feet; train up 
the strongest of the two on last year's wood, and 
shorten back the other three, by pinching off the ends 
of the shoots ; during the season, give plenty of air, 
in fine weather, and shut up the house at night. The 
best way of training the vines, is by iron rods, parallel 
with the rafters, having three of them; a centre one, 
to which should be tied the cane, and one on each side 
of this, about eight inches distant, to tie the bearing 
shoot to ; in a cold house, they should be ten inches 
from the glass, and, in a forcing one, fourteen inches." 

As the leading cane grows, tie it carefully to the rod, 
or trellis ; stop all the laterals, as they appear, at one 
eye, or leaf; continue to check them, as they push 
again, in the same way. The second shoot, on last 
year's wood, may be cut entirely out in June, or, as 
soon as it is certain that no accident to the leading 
cane will require the use of this as a substitute ; the 
shoots on the spurs of the old wood must be stopped, 
as often as they push, by cutting them back to one 
eye. 

Stop the leading cane when it has grown about 
fifteen feet, and before it reaches the top of the house ; 
allow the upper lateral to grow ; this will prevent the 
eyes, on the upper part of the cane, from bursting. 

* Some persons prefer the rods to run horizontally, the whole length of 
the house. 



14 CULTUEE OF THE GRAPE. 

This lateral should be cut back to one eye, after it has 
grown three or four feet ; if it still continue growing 
strong, check it again. 

Early in July, dust sulphur on the floor of the house, 
to prevent mildew ; to be effectual, one pound should 
be used for every twenty square feet of the house. If 
mildew should make its appearance, and continue to in- 
crease, syringe the vines at evening, and dust the 
foliage also with it.* 

In September, begin at the lower part of the cane, 
and, with a sharp knife, cut clean out all the laterals, 
for eight or nine feet, leaving those on the upper part 
of the cane to be cut out in the autumn pruning ; be 
careful, in doing this, not to injure the bud, or the leaf 
of the cane, where you cut, for, from this eye, your 
fruit is to come next summer. 

As soon as the leaves are falling, cut back the cane 
to eight or nine feet, and the two spurs to one eye, 
each. 

With a painters' brush, put on the vines a composi- 
tion of soft soap and sulphur, in the proportion of four 
pounds sulphur to two pounds of soap ; be sure to 
cover all the wood, and particularly around the eyes. 
To prepare this wash, mix the two substances well 
together, when cold, and pour hot water upon them ; 
it should be of the consistency of cream when put on 
the vine. 

* Nathaniel Silsbee, Jr., Esq., informs me, that, in his grapery, which is 
a cold house, he covers the floor twice, every summer, with the sulphur, 
and recommends its application in the middle of the day, as, at that time, 
part of it will rise and settle on the vine, but, in such small particles, as to 
do no injury. He has found this effectual in preventing mildew. 



CULTUKE OF THE GEAPE. 15 

The first of December, lay down the vines, horizon- 
tally, near the ground on the front of the house, and 
cover them from the sun. Russia mats are the best 
for this purpose ; cover the border as last year. 

This will end the second season of their growth. 
So far, we have considered the house a cold one, or 
without fire heat ; if the vines have been planted in a 
greenhouse, and a fire kept up, then they will have 
started in February or March ; if they are so situated, 
let the house be kept at as low a temperature, night 
and day, as the safety of the plants will admit ; the 
treatment should be the same, for the season, except 
the covering of them with mats, which would be 
unnecessary. 

Third Year. 

The third season, air the house, as directed the last 
year ; uncover the vines from the first to the middle 
of April, as the spring may be mild or cool ; keep 
them in their horizontal position, until the eyes have 
all pushed; have a moist atmosphere, by sprinkling 
the vines and the floor, several times, every day. 
About the twentieth of April, or the first of May, they 
will have pushed their buds so as to be all ready to be 
put to the rods, or trellis. 

During the season, give air freely when the sun 
shines; shut up the windows towards night, as the 
sun recedes from the house. The mercury should not 
rise above seventy-five, until the blossom is over; 
after that has passed, eighty or ninety, at midday, 
will do no harm; occasionally wet the floor of the 
house in the afternoon; the inside border must be 



16 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 

watered, as often as the roots of the vine require; 
continue this treatment for the season. As the grapes 
begin to color, be cautious in watering, and, after they 
are fully colored, do not give water at all, until the 
grapes are all cut, leaving open some of the lights at 
night, unless there is danger of frost, or rain. 

About the last of May, the shoots will be from one 
to three feet long ; train up the leading one, the same 
as last year, and cut back the others to one leaf beyond 
the bunch of fruit to be retained for ripening; the 
bunch nearest the cane is the one usually left on for 
this purpose f cut off all the others ; never leave more 
than one bunch on a spur, and cut away all the fruit 
from every alternate spur ; when this is done, and 
there is still more than eight good-sized bunches re- 
maining, reduce them to this number ; these will be 
quite enough for the vine to mature, the first year of 
bearing ; if the bunches are very large, you must cut 
off still more ; do not allow over ten pounds of fruit 
to ripen on each vine ; they probably will average not 
less than one pound to the bunch. 

Occasionally, it will be necessary to go over the 
vines, and stop the laterals that push on the leading 
cane and on the spurs, by cutting them back to one 
eye ; it will be found a saving of labor, to perform this 
pruning at regular intervals of a fortnight during the 
season ; continue this, until they cease growing ; the 
leading cane should be stopped as soon as it reaches 

* It sometimes happens, that a spur will have four or five bunches on 
the shoot, the nearest one to the cane being at the second leaf ; when this 
occurs, it is best to leave, for ripening, the second bunch, cutting away the 
others. 



CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 17 

the top of the house, leaving one or two laterals at 
the top to grow a few days, when you should cut 
back one of them, and leave the other a few days longer, 
when that must be cut back also. I do not syringe 
the vines after they are trained to the trellis, and do 
not think it ever necessary, provided the house is kept 
moist by watering. 

The vines will begin to bloom early in June ; when 
the berries are as large as peas, begin to thin them ; 
cut out all the small ones first ; no rule can be laid 
down, as to the number to be taken out of each bunch, 
for the same kinds set their fruit more or less thickly 
in different years, and in different situations. Of 
Black Hamburgh, I usually cut three out of five ber- 
ries; of Zinfindal, eight out of ten; of Chasselas, 
when they set well, five out of ten : experience will 
soon teach one what is proper to be done. If the 
shoots from the spurs have not been tied to the rods, 
they should be, as soon as the thinning is over ; do 
this carefully, and let them be at equal distances ; a 
little attention to this will improve the appearance of 
the vines very much. 

Examine the bunch as the grapes swell ; if they are 
pressing together, cut out still more, always taking the 
smallest berries. In thinning, avoid touching the 
grapes with the hand ; the moisture of the flesh causes 
rust; if it is necessary to handle the bunch, gloves 
should be worn. After they begin to change color, if 
it is necessary to thin them more, the scissors must 
be used cautiously, in order not to injure the bloom, 
and thereby destroy the beauty of the bunch. 
3 



18 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 

Early in July, spread the sulphur, as directed 
the last year. The grapes will begin to change 
color in August, and to ripen about the middle of 
September. 

When ripening off, if the berries do not swell or 
color well, and, in black varieties, are of a pale red 
color, feeling soft, if touched, you may be assured the 
vines are not strong enough to ripen the crop ; cut off 
the lower part of the bunch of some, and the whole 
of others, selecting, for this purpose, the bunches 
which are the most affected in this way, and reducing 
the quantity on the vine one third, or one half, and 
do so as soon as you suspect this is the case ; by these 
means, you may save the residue of the crop, and, at 
the same time, relieve the vine from the exhausting 
effort of attempting to mature it. This is a trouble 
caused by overcropping, and is entirely distinct from 
what is usually termed shanking; for this disease, 
after it has once taken hold of the bunch, there is no 
remedy ; the part affected must be lost. In Septem- 
ber, cut out all the laterals from the new cane, as 
directed last year. 

This treatment of the vine will give you delicious 
fruit, well-colored, and, consequently, high-flavored; 
in black grapes, as a general rule, it may be laid down, 
that, when fully ripe, the blacker the grape, the more 
spirited and richer the juice ; bunches weighing about 
one pound are usually better ripened than larger ones. 
The berries of the Black Hamburgh, grown by these 
rules, will measure three and four inches round. This 
grape is often grown of a slightly reddish tinge, and 



CULTUEE OF THE GKAPE. 19 

sometimes with very large berries, very sweet indeed, 
but deficient in flavor. 

This is a simple process, but the practical operation 
of it involves much labor and unremitted attention. 
After all is done that is required by pruning, thinning, 
watering, &c, much depends upon the proper ventila- 
tion and heat of the house ; this must be opened and 
shut as the weather changes ; if clouds are constantly 
passing during the day, and the sun alternately ob- 
scured or shining, it will be difficult to regulate the 
temperature ; a partial opening of the top lights will 
allow the heat to escape, and prevent too great an ac- 
cumulation of it ; the person having charge will soon, 
by attention, ascertain how much ventilation is re- 
quired under such circumstances. 

It will be preferable to have a low temperature, and 
changing between sixty-five and eighty, than by having 
the house closed, the heat raised, for even a very short 
time, to one hundred, or one hundred and twenty, 
which would be the case in changeable weather, should 
the sun shine forth suddenly, and the house be entirely 
closed. This must never be allowed, but, as soon as 
there is a prospect of the sun shining, open the lights 
a little, and continue opening as the heat increases. 

Avoid sudden changes of the temperature as much 
as possible, and the ah* should, at all times, be ad- 
mitted gradually. 

Never allow any of the leaves of the vine to be 
taken off for the purpose of admitting the sun to the 
grapes. 

If aphis, or the vine fretter, appear on the vine, 



20 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 

fumigating the house with tobacco will destroy them. 
If red spiders are troublesome, moisture and sulphur 
are the only remedies ; syringing the vines at evening, 
and dusting the leaves with flour of sulphur. 

In September, all but the last lateral on the spurs 
should be cut out. 

When the leaves are off, early in November, cut 
back the leading cane, leaving four feet only of the 
new, or this year's growth; this will now make the 
entire length of the cane twelve or thirteen feet ; cut 
back, close to the old wood, the spurs that have fruited 
this year ; those that have not, cut back to one eye or 
bud, to bear fruit the coming season ; clean and put 
over the vines the soap and sulphur, as before ; and 
the first of December, lay them down and cover them, 
as last season. 

If the spurs are too close together, you can cut out 
those that are not wanted ; they should not be nearer 
together than four inches; this would make them 
eight inches apart on each side the cane, and closer 
than they are often grown; if nearer, they would ob- 
struct the light. 

Fourth Year. 

The fourth year, follow the same directions for ven- 
tilating, giving air, and watering the vines and the 
floor of the house as heretofore. 

After the vines are secured to the trellis, and the 
shoots are one or two inches long, rub out, from the 
spurs which were cut close, all but one shoot; this 
you must leave to grow for future use ; do not allow 
it to bear fruit this season. 



CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. SI 

If the vines are strong, and were not injured by 
overbearing last year, you can now leave on each vine 
fifteen bunches, that will weigh one pound each, to 
ripen this season; let the bunches be distributed, at 
proper distances, over the vine. The leading cane 
should not be allowed to bear fruit until it has become 
established at the length desired for permanent use, 
when it can be fruited as well as the other shoots. 
Very strong, healthy vines will often show, on this 
length of cane, sixty to one hundred bunches ; and it 
requires some firmness in an inexperienced person, to 
cut out in this free manner. 

Prune at the same time, and in the same way, as 
last year; and, at the autumn trimming, leave four 
feet more of the new cane ; this will now be sixteen 
or seventeen feet long, and of sufficient length to bear 
as large crops as the vine should ever be required to 
do. In November, clean and place the vines, and 
protect them from frost, as heretofore. 

Fifth Year. 

Fifth year, the same general treatment is to be 
pursued ; the leading cane must be stopped at the top 
of the house, leaving two or three of the extreme 
laterals to grow a short time, and stopping them at 
intervals of four or five days, the top one first. 

You may now allow the vines to bear twenty pounds 
of fruit, and, as they grow older and stronger, you can 
increase the weight to twenty-five pounds. I have 
never seen more than this quantity ripened on a vine, 
in this country, without injuring the crop the year 



22 CULTUEE OF THE GRAPE. 

after. It is true, we often hear of much larger crops, 
but my experience will not warrant any thing of the 
kind.* 

It is unusual to see a bunch of Black Hamburgh 
grapes weighing more than four pounds. At the ex- 
hibition of the London Horticultural Society, at Chis- 
wick, on the ninth of July, 1836, there was shown a 
very fine bunch of this variety which weighed eight 
pounds and six ounces ; it is mentioned in Loudon's 
Magazine as " hitherto unrivalled ;" see volume twelfth, 
page four hundred and forty-fourth.f 

A simple furnace and flue, to run along the front of 
the house, even when it is not intended to force, is 
desirable, as a small fire can then be made in wet 
weather, and, after the fruit is ripe, by keeping the 
air dry, you will be able to preserve the grapes sound 
a great length of time. 

The fall pruning of the fourth year will leave the 
vine established at the proper length at which it may 
ever remain ; the fall trimming the fifth year, and ever 
after, will be the same as that of the fourth, — cutting 
the leading cane back to the dormant eyes. 

* la England, there are two very remarkable vines, which are said to 
produce, yearly, over two thousand bunches. One of these, that at Hamp- 
ton Court, I saw in the summer of 1836 ; it then was bearing a crop of 
over two thousand bunches ; they were generally small, however, and the 
berries were not large ; the man having charge of the house said that it 
did not look as well as usual. In 1846, a gentleman who visited it, de- 
scribes the bunches as small, but numerous, and looking well ; the roof of 
the house is covered with the vine ; it is trained horizontally, and passes, 
two or three times, the whole length of the roof ; the pruning is on the spur 
system, but a shoot is laid in, wherever wanted to fill a vacant space. 

f I had the satisfaction of seeing this bunch of grapes ; it probably is 
the largest bunch of this kind ever grown. 



CULTUEE OF THE GEAPE. 23 

If, after a series of years, the cane should become 
too long, it can then be cut back to the next spur 
from the top. 

EEMAEKS ON FOECING THE VINE. 

If it is intended to winter-force, you must not com- 
mence the process, the first year, before the first of 
March ; the second year, you may begin the middle of 
February ; the third year, the first of February, and 
so on, fifteen days earlier every year, until you reach 
the first of December ; beyond this you can hardly go, 
as this allows only time to prune and clean the vine 
after it has gone into rest. 

The first of March is recommended as the best time 
to commence fire-heat for the main crop of grapes ; 
this can hardly be considered as forcing ; it is a simple 
protection and aid to the natural growth, and as heavy 
crops can be matured as in a cold house. 

In a house that is forced in December or January, 
every year, ten pounds of grapes is quite as much as 
each vine will perfect, on an average of years. 

Before making the fires, the border must be at- 
tended to ; if it was covered in the autumn with coarse 
fitter or leaves, as directed, it should now have a 
quantity of fresh stable manure added, and well mixed 
with the fitter ; cover the whole border to the depth 
of eighteen inches, and protect this from the cold rain 
and snow with boards; this will effectually prevent 
the frost from penetrating to the roots. The manage- 
ment of the vine will be the same as directed for the 
cold house ; the pruning, thinning, and training must 



24 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 

all be done in the same manner. Forcing, earlier 
than the first of March, is attended with much more 
risk of failure ; the expense and trouble are more, and 
these are all increased in proportion as you begin 
before this time. 

DIRECTIONS FOR MANAGING THE FORCING-HOUSE. 

Commence forcing your house with a temperature 
of 40° at night, 60° by day ; admit air freely when 
the sun shines ; upon the furnace and the flues, place 
pans of water ; the vines should be kept in a horizon- 
tal position until they are pushing strong ; syringe or 
wet them repeatedly during the day, and keep the air 
of the house moist by watering the floor. After ten 
days, raise the temperature to 45° by night, 65° by 
sunshine; continue to keep the house moist until the 
vines have all broken well, and have been put up to 
the trellis, when you can lessen gradually the watering ; 
let the pans of water, on the furnace and flue, be con- 
stantly filled while the grapes are growing ; after they 
begin to color, lessen the number of pans of water 
gradually, and the moisture of the house, and ripen 
off the fruit in a dry atmosphere. 

In ten days more, raise the temperature to 50° or 
55° at night, and by day, when cloudy, to 65°, or, 
when the sun shines, to 75°. This temperature should 
be gradually raised at night until the grapes are in 
bloom, when the heat should be as equal as possible, 
70° at night, 75° or 80° by day, when the sun shines. 
Do not let the temperature of the house, by artificial 
means, rise above 70° in this stage of forcing. 



CULTUKE OF THE GRAPE. 25 

In May and June, we often have some very hot 
days, with a bright sun and dry air, the temperature 
in the open air 80° or 90°, and even higher; in such 
weather, you cannot prevent the heat of the house ris- 
ing to over 100° ; if the air should be very dry, it would 
burn the leaves, and injure them more to have all the 
lights and doors thrown wide open, than a greater de- 
gree of heat with proportionate moisture would do. 

The shrivel in grapes is caused, frequently, by too 
large a crop ; sometimes by too much moisture at the 
roots, and often by a sudden change of air, or too low a 
temperature ; the best preventive for the two latter 
troubles is a constant free circulation of warm air. 

In the management of your house, aim to imitate 
nature, by a regular increase of heat, as in spring. 

Early in October, you may cut back the spurs to 
two eyes, if you think the wood is not ripening well; 
be careful and do not cut, or otherwise injure the re- 
maining eyes, or their leaves; this will admit more 
sun to the house, and promote a free circulation of air, 
and strengthen the eyes retained. 

In winter, the mercury, in the open air, frequently 
falls to zero, and sometimes six and ten below, with a 
high wind blowing at the same time. 

In January, February, and the early part of March, 
for weeks together, it will be found, during the night, 
ranging from ten above, down to, zero. In such a 
climate, a powerful and steady heat is necessary. 

The boiler and pipe to circulate hot water around 
the house, on the level principle, together with the 
furnace and flue, are recommended as the best and 
4 



26 CULTUEE OF THE GEAPE. 

safest heating apparatus. A furnace and flue will not 
heat more than twenty-five feet of a grapery that is 
forced in the winter months, and, for any additional 
length of the house, other furnaces must be added, in 
the like proportion, or the hot water apparatus sub- 
stituted. 

The following is a memorandum of the regulation 
of the heat, with the dates on which the different 
operations were performed, in a house forced in the 
winter of 1846 and 1847 :— 

November, 1846. — The vines were pruned; every 
alternate spur was cut at one eye to fruit ; the others 
were cut close, as there were more spurs than the 
strength of the vine would admit of fruiting the com- 
ing season. 

When the vines were not of sufficient length for the 
rafters, we retained as much of the new cane as was 
required, or as the strength of the vine would allow. 

The loose bark was rubbed off, and the vines painted 
over with the composition of soap and sulphur. 

The border was covered with litter. 

The first of December, the vines were placed in a 
horizontal position, near the front of the house, and 
covered with Russia mats ; those on the back of the 
house were laid down and covered in the same manner. 

December 20th. — The fires were made, and forcing 
commenced ; the temperature of the house was kept 
at 40° at night, 60° by day ; fresh stable manure was 
put on the border, and well mixed with the litter 
already there ; the vines, and the floor of the house, 
were repeatedly watered, and pans of water placed on 



CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 27 

the furnace and flues ; this temperature was kept up, 
and the watering continued, until — 

January 1st, 1847, — when the temperature was 
raised to 45° at night, 65° by day, and air freely ad- 
mitted, when the sun shone ; wetting the house and 
vines continued. 

January 5th. — The temperature was raised, at night, 
to 50° ; by day, if cloudy, to 65° ; when the sun shone, 
to 70°, with plenty of air admitted, and the pans of 
water daily replenished. This heat was continued to — 

January 10th, — when, at night, the temperature was 
kept at 50° to 55° ; by day, if cloudy, 65° ; when the 
sun shone, 75°, with air; the top windows were let 
down, every other light, three or four inches in the 
morning, and as the heat increased, more air was 
gradually admitted. 

When the house became quite warm with sun heat, 
the front lights were opened a little. In very cold 
days, and with a bright sun shining, the windows were 
not opened more than four inches ; watered the house 
freely in mild weather, giving less in very cold ; the 
pans of water were kept full. This treatment was 
continued to — 

January 20th, — when the temperature, in cloudy 
weather, was raised to 70° by day ; during the night, 
and on sunshiny days, the same as from the tenth 
instant ; and this was continued to February. 

The vines, near the furnace, were all pushing, both 
sets at the same time, those planted on the outside of 
the house, and those on the inside. The mercury, in 
the open air, last night, was at zero ; in the house, at 



28 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 

9, P. M., it was 55°; at 7, A. M., 48°, with as large 
fires as the furnace would allow. 

January 25th. — Nine of the vines, which were near- 
est to the furnace, were tied to the rods. 

January 27th. — Put up sixteen more. 

February 1st. — The temperature, at night, was kept 
at 55° to 65° ; by day, and when cloudy, 70° to 75° ; 
by sunshine, 75° to 85°, giving air as above ; and this 
temperature was continued until the blossom was over ; 
the remaining vines, on the front of the house, were 
taken up and secured to the rods. 

February 2d. — The vines, on the back of the house, 
were tied to the trellis ; some of the shoots, on the vines 
near the furnace, were two feet, and some three feet 
long ; they were cut back to one eye beyond the fruit. 

February 10th. — Bubbed out all but one shoot on 
each spur, where it had not been done before ;* the 
spurs which were cut close have generally pushed, 
from dormant eyes at then base, from two to six 
shoots, and most of the shoots had fruit bunches.f 

February 15th. — First blossoms opened to-day on 
three of the vines; shortened back, and tied out to 
the rods, the side shoots on several vines. 

February 21st. — Blossoms have opened on the eight 
vines nearest the furnace, and, on the two first, the 
berries are swelling off; continued to stop, and to tie 
up, and to thin out, any of the shoots that are not 
wanted. 

* This can be done as soon as the shoots are one inch long, shortly after 
the canes are put up. 

f The tendrils should be cut smoothly out when they first appear. 



CULTUEE OF THE GRAPE. 29 

March 1st. — The temperature, at night, was kept at 
60° to 70°; by day, when cloudy, 70° to 75°; by 
sunshine, 80° to 90° ; as much air admitted as could 
be, with safety, allowed ; began to thin some bunches 
on three vines; ten vines were in blossom on the 
front, and four on the back of the house. 

March 10th. — More than half the vines were in 
blossom, and the grapes thinned on eight vines ; the 
laterals on the spurs were cut back to one eye, and this 
check was repeated as they required it. 

March 15th. — Temperature the same as from the 
first of the month ; have been thinning the grapes the 
past fortnight ; they are now finished, for the first 
time, and the earliest vines have been thinned two or 
three times.* 

April 1st. — Temperature the same as in March; 
from day to day have been examining and thinning 
the berries, when it was found necessary. 

April 10th. — The first grapes began to color, near 
the furnace, this day. Temperature as above. 

April 20th. — The Zinfindal, Early Black July, and 
Grizzly Frontignan coloring; the Pitmaston White 
Cluster nearly ripe, and the Chasselas Bar Sur Aube 
changing color. 

May 1st. — The temperature, at night, 70° ; by day, 
if cloudy, 75° to 80° ; by sunshine, 85° to 95°, with 
air freely admitted. The first Black Hamburgh grapes 
begin to color ; the pans of water were removed from 
the furnace and from the flue, where the grapes have 

* The shoulders of very large bunches (the Syrian) always require to be 
spread out and supported by strings, to permit a free circulation of air. 



30 CULTURE OF THE GKAPE. 

colored, or are nearly ripe ; the bunches were ex- 
amined, and all defective berries cut out ; all thinning, 
for the season, was now finished. 

May 10th. — The grapes were ripe on the first five 
vines ; part of the fruit, from Chasselas Bar Sur Aube, 
Zinfindal, Early Black July, Pitmaston White Cluster, 
and Grizzly Frontignan, has been gathered; more of 
the pans of water were removed from the flue. 

May 20th. — Cut Black Hamburgh grapes, fully 
ripe ; the grapes were all ripening in every part of the 
house, and have colored well ; all the pans of water 
were now removed, and the house kept as dry as 
possible. 

June 1st. — The weather now being warm, the mak- 
ing of fires was omitted, excepting in wet weather, 
when small fires were made in the day-time, and the 
house was opened for ventilation. 

June 10th. — Half the crop was fuUy ripe, and the 
residue colored. After the grapes were all cut, the 
sashes were kept open night and day, and they should 
be continued so until cool weather, when it will be best 
to close the sashes and doors at night, to exclude hard 
frosts. 

In July, there is every probability that the red spi- 
der may appear on the vines of a house that has been 
winter-forced; to destroy them, syringe the vines in 
the afternoon frequently, and dust sulphur all over 
them ; if this does not kill them, wet the flues and 
the floor of the house thoroughly, and dust both of 
them well with the sulphur ; make a fire in the fur- 
nace to cause the sulphur to send out strong fumes ; 



CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 31 

you may melt it, but by no means allow it to burn ; 
shut up the house close, and give it a good steaming; 
open it early in the morning ; this should be done in 
the afternoon, before the sun has ceased to shine upon 
the house. 

RETARDING HOUSE. 

The retarding house should be built upon the same 
plan as the forcing house ; it is not necessary that it 
should be so wide, or so high on the back. 

The pruning and training of the vine is the same 
as in the cold house ; the thinning of the berries will 
be performed later than in any other house, and care 
should be had that it is thoroughly done, and more 
severely than in any other way of growing them. 

Early in March, the sun must be excluded from the 
house ; this can be done by spreading sails, or mats, 
over the glass ; the doors and lights must be open 
day and night when the temperature is above freezing. 

In May, when the vines push their buds, the cover- 
ing must be removed from the glass ; keep the tem- 
perature as low as possible, night and day, during the 
summer ; the end of May, or early in June, the vines 
should be put to the rods, or trellis. 

Early in July, the grapes will be in blossom ; apply 
the sulphur now to the floor of the house, and observe 
the vines carefully during this and the next month ; if 
the mildew appear on the wood, fruit, or foliage, shut 
the house at night, and apply more sulphur. Never 
allow it to remain on the fruit ; if, by accident, any 
should get on, brush it oft" immediately, — opening the 



32 CULTUEE OF THE GRAPE. 

house by day, as in any grapery. Early in August, 
the grapes will require to be thinned. 

In October, when the nights become cool, close the 
doors and windows, (where it has not been done before 
on account of mildew,) giving as much air, and keeping 
as low a temperature, (when the sun shines,) by day, as 
possible. 

In November, small fires must be made and kept 
up in the night-time and in cloudy weather. 

The fruit will be ripe the last of November and in 
December; after which, the house must be kept as 
dry as possible, having sufficient fires to keep out the 
frost. 

After the fruit and foliage are off, prune the vines, 
and protect them from the frost. 

The following list is recommended for planting in 
the retarding house, and in the proportions named : — 

Black Hamburgh, five vines, including, with this 
variety, the Wilmot's New Black Hamburgh. 

Muscat of Alexandria, two vines. 

Zinfindal, two vines. 

Black Lombardy, five vines. 

Charlsworth Tokay, two vines. 

Whortley Hall Seedling, three vines. 

Aleppo, one vine. 

Tottenham Park Muscat, three vines. 

Syrian, one vine. 

Chasselas de Bar Sur Aube, one vine. 

Black Prince, one vine. 

St. Peter's, (old,) one vine. 

Black Frontignan, one vine. 



CULTUKE OF THE GRAPE. 33 



VARIETIES OF GRAPES FOR PLANTING. 

For planting, I would recommend the Black Ham- 
burgh grape as the best for the greatest number of 
vines. 

The Grizzly, the White, and the Black Frontignan 
are all admired by those persons who like the Muscat 
flavor ; they are liable to shrivel, and are more delicate 
than other grapes, and do not keep well when ripe ; 
the Grizzly is the earliest of them. 

The Muscat of Alexandria is a large oval grape ; it 
does not set well under glass, and requires artificial 
impregnation ;* it is a firm-fleshed or breaking grape, 
and, when well ripened, cannot be exceeded in rich- 
ness. 

Tottenham Park Muscat is very like the former, but 
not so high flavored ; it sets its berries better. 

Chasselas Bar Sur Aube is a fine white grape, and a 
good bearer. 

Pitmaston White Cluster has rather small berries, 
but is very early and good. 

Syrian, white, has very large bunches, sometimes 
weighing twenty pounds. I have never grown them 
over five pounds. This is a tolerably good grape, if 
allowed to hang until of an amber color. 

Verdelho is a small oval white grape, very good, and 
a great bearer. 

# Otis Johnson, Esq., of Lynn, a successful cultivator of the grape, the 
present year, allowed the shoots of this variety to grow at random until 
the fruit was swelling, and he thinks the result of the experiment has been 
favorable : the fruit has set remarkably well. 

5 



34 



CULTUEE OF THE GKRAPE. 



Black Lombardy is a late grape, and will hang a 
long time after it is ripe. 

For a cold house, I would recommend the following : 



Black Hamburgh, 
Rose, or Red Chasselas, 
Chasselas de Bar Sur 

Aube, 
White Frontignan, 
Grizzly Frontignan, 

For a forcing house : 

Black Hamburgh, 
Red, or Rose Chasselas, 
Chasselas de Bar Sur Aube 
White Frontignan, 
Black Frontignan, 
Grizzly Frontignan, 
Pitmaston White Cluster, 



Pitmaston White Cluster, 
Golden Chasselas, 
White Gascoigne, 
Royal Muscadine, 
Wilmot's New Black Ham- 
burgh. 



Golden Chasselas, 
White Gascoigne, 
Royal Muscadine, 
Wilmot's New Black Flam- 
burgh, 
Muscat of Alexandria, 
Zinfmdal. 



The Early Black July may be added, if it is desired 
to get early grapes ; this is a small grape, of a pleas- 
ant flavor, but no earlier than the Pitmaston, and 
only desirable for its color. They will both, if planted 
in the warmest situation, come on together, and much 
before the Black Hamburgh. The Grizzly Frontignan 
is also an early grape. 

The list above embraces a good number of the best 
varieties ; there are several new kinds well spoken 
of, but which have not been sufficiently tried in 
this country to prove their qualities. The Chasselas 
Musque cracks very much, thus far, and, if it should 



CULTUEE OF THE GEAPE. 35 

habitually do so, will not be worth cultivation. The 
Muscat Blanc Hatif (Early White Muscat) is particu- 
larly recommended abroad. 

There are five or six more kinds which will be fully 
proved in two or three years, but it is hardly probable 
there will be any thing better produced, for cultivation 
under glass, than the best of the old kinds named 
above. For large collections, almost any number of 
kinds may be added. The Garden of the Luxem- 
bourg, at Paris, numbers about five hundred varieties, 
many of them worthless, and a great number only 
differing very little in foliage, or in the time of ripening. 

The following list contains the new varieties, with 
some older ones, which have recently been brought to 
notice, part of which have not yet been proved in this 
country : — 

Escholata Muscat. — This is said to be a seedling 
of the Muscat of Alexandria, and every way like it. 

Chasselas Musque 7 . — Cracks badly, thus far ; has 
been worthless in this country ; it is a seedling raised 
by Vibert, of France. 

Cannon Hall Muscat. — Sets very badly ; the ber- 
ries are large and very handsome. 

Wilmot's Eaely White Muscat. 

Bloom Baisin Seedling. 

De Candolle. — Bed, with large bunches and berries. 

Wilmot's New Black Hambuegh. — Has proved 
fine. 

Wilmot's No. 16. — Has proved fine. 

Blussaed Noie. 

Chasselas Hatif Petit. — Too small to be worthy 
of cultivation. 



36 CULTUKE OF THE GBAPE. 

Black Lombakdy. — A fine late grape ; this is the 
same as West's St. Peter's. 

Victoria Hambuegh. — This is said to be a syn- 
onyme of the old kind ; but there have been specimens 
exhibited which certainly appeared different. 

Muscat of Lunel. — This is the same as the Mus- 
cat of Alexandria. 

Tokay, Charlsworth. — Excellent, with a Muscat 
flavor. 

Whortley Hall Seedling. — A good, and very 
late grape. 

Red Traminer. — Good, with small round berries. 

Rissling White. — Ripens in the open air; the 
berries are small, and the flavor good. 

Black Tripoli. — Has round berries, not unlike the 
Black Hamburgh. 

Black Prolific. — Has round berries, with large 
bunches. It is good, but does not keep well. 

Palestine Grape. — The bunches of this variety 
are enormous, and the berries are oval, large, and 
white. 

Suabi. 

LlVEBDEN. 

Fbomental. 

Florentine. 

Falanchina. 

August Muscat. — A seedling raised by M. Vibert, 
of Angers, in France, from the grape called there the 
Frankantal, (supposed to be what we call the Black 
Hamburgh, as it usually proves so, when ordered from 
France ;) it is a very weak growing vine ; the fruit is 



CULTUKE OF THE GRAPE. 37 

black, of Muscat flavor, and is said to mature its fruit 
earlier than any other grape ; a vine in my grapery 
has fruit which will ripen this summer. 

Golden Chasselas. — Has a very large round berry, 
with a large bunch, and is very handsome ; sets poorly 
and cracks. 

Aleppo. — The bunches are large; it is a good 
bearer, and a good grape. 

White Nice. — Has very large bunches, with small 
berries. The quality is good. 

Espeeione. — The berries are small and black, and 
the bunches very large. 

Rose, or Red Chasselas. — This is a good bearer, 
with a fine flavor and small berries. 

Grosse Noir of Lorraine. 

Decon's Superb. — A white grape, fruited, in 1846, 
by Mr. Buist ; is said to be very fine. 

Prince Albert. — This variety will fruit this season 
in this country. 

Queen of Nice. — This is a handsome fruit, with 
large bunches and berries, but it is said to be a small 
bearer. 

Violet Muscat. 

Grosse Perle Blanche. 

Xeres. — A white grape, represented as very fine. 

Black Morse. 

Purple Muscat. 

Austrian Muscat. — Is not unlike the Grizzly; 
promises to be fine. 

S. Charges Henling. — A black variety, fruited by 
Mr. Buist, in 1846 ; said to be fine. 



38 CULTUEE OF THE GEAPE. 

POETIEE NOIE. 

Geos Coulaed. — Has large berries and is early. 

Bishop. 

St. Petee's of Aliees. — The berries are large and 
oval. 

Caillabee. — Kesembles the Black Frontignan. 

Pabteidge Foot. 

Gaeden Tokay. — Bed. 

Hansteeetto. — Black ; does not set well. 

Black Muscat of Alexandeia. 

Red Chasselas of Vibeet. — This is supposed to 
be a hybrid of the Isabella and Chasselas. 

Chaptal. — This is another seedling of M. Vibert, 
with large oval berries. 

Madelaine of Vibeet. — Has berries of medium 
size and oval. 

Geosse Peele Blanche de Semis. — Seedling of 
Vibert; said to have very large bunches, and the 
berries uncommonly large and nearly round. Two 
other varieties, from seed, by M. Vibert, with black 
colored fruit, which he calls Nos. 3 and 4, are early; 
but, as he does not mention them as particularly good, 
it may be presumed that their quality is not remarkable. 

Josling's St. Albans Geape. — A seedling, raised by 
Mr. Josling, of St. Albans, somewhat resembling the 
White Frontignan ; supposed to be a hybrid of Muscat 
of Alexandria and White Nice. This is highly spoken 
of and recommended by Mr. Thompson ; it is said not 
to shank. 

Lombaedy, Bed. — This is a late grape, with very 
large bunches, and is the same as the name- colored 
Tokay. 



CULTUEE OF THE GEAPE. 39 

Maceeady's Eaely White. — This is a new variety ; 
it has been fruited the present and last season by 
Messrs. Hovey & Co., in their greenhouse. It is a 
white grape, with an oval and rather small berry. I 
do not consider it any better, if as good, as the 
Pitmaston. 

CULTUEE IN THE OPEN AIE. 

The mildew renders the cultivation of foreign vari- 
eties of the grape, in the open air, in this country, 
almost useless. The difficulty is not with the season ; 
this is long enough to ripen many kinds, were it not 
for the above trouble. I have seen, in my garden, the 
Early Black July perfectly colored the first of Septem- 
ber ; but the leaf was so injured by mildew, that the 
grapes did not sweeten, or obtain any flavor. 

In some of our cities, they occasionally ripen very 
well. If it is desired to make the attempt, the border 
should be made with care in the same way as directed 
for house culture ; they may be trained by any of the 
systems described ; prune them, and thin the berries 
in the same manner as if in the house. 

The Pitmaston White Cluster, Early Black July, 
and Esperione are recommended as the best for culti- 
vation in the vicinity of Boston ; further south, the 
Black Hamburgh and Frontignans may be added to 
the list. 

In November, the vines must be laid down and well 
covered with straw, or litter, to protect them from the 
frost. 

In Hovey's Magazine of Horticulture, vol. 12th, is 



40 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 

a communication by Mr. J. W. Russel, gardener to 
Horace Gray, Esq., on the cultivation of the grape, in 
which he gives the following receipt to prevent mildew. 
Having found the application of sulphur to the floor 
of the house all that was necessary in cultivating the 
grape under glass, I have never used this preparation, 
but, for then cultivation in the open air, I would 
strongly advise its trial ; it should be applied in July, 
or earlier, if there is any appearance of mildew on the 
fruit, wood, or foliage. 

Receipt. — " To one peck of quick lime, add half a 
pound of sulphur ; put them into a tight barrel, and 
pour boiling hot water over them sufficient to slake all 
the lime, and it will be found that the sulphur is mixed 
with it in the best possible manner ; then pour on to 
the top of it three gallons of soft water, and stir it well 
together, leaving it to settle ; in about twenty-four 
hours, the water on the top will be perfectly clear. 

" This should be taken off as clear as possible, and 
put into a stone jar, there to remain until wanted. Half 
a pint of this mixture will be sufficient for three gal- 
lons of water. 

" This wash will not injure either the fruit or leaves, 
and no person could tell that any thing but clean water 
had been used, only that it leaves a stain on white 
paint, which will wear off in a little time. This is a 
sure remedy for the mildew, and, therefore, worth 
knowing to every grape cultivator." 

The Isabella, a native grape, succeeds better, in the 
open air, than any other variety in this vicinity ; the 
border should be well made, and in a dry situation ; 



CULTUEE OF THE GRAPE. 41 

the training must be different from that of the foreign 
kinds ; it will not bear the severe pruning which is 
necessary for them ; the summer shoots should be tied 
to the trellis ; leading up or out, in different directions, 
shoots to be partially retained, at the winter pruning, 
for the extension of the vine. In September, cut back 
the ends of all the shoots made this year to check the 
growth, and let the sun and air have access to the vine. 
Winter-prune, in February, on the spur system, leav- 
ing an addition to the extreme shoots of about two 
feet of the new wood, and when this cane grows too long 
for the trellis, cut it back, at the winter pruning, to any 
length desirable, and lead up a new shoot the coming 
season to take its place. 

The quantity of fruit that a vine of this variety will 
ripen, when it has arrived at maturity, under proper 
management, and is favorably situated, is remarkably 
large ; two bunches on a spur may be allowed to ripen ; 
the berries do not require the thinning that foreign 
ones do ; the small ones only should be cut out. 

When gathered in perfectly dry weather, and put 
away in a cool place, just above the freezing point, and 
packed in layers of cotton, they will often keep good 
until March. Before packing, each bunch should be 
examined, and any defective berry cut out. 

The Catawba will not ripen as far north as Boston. 

Pond's Seedling is one of the best native varieties ; 
the fruit, however, is but seldom seen, and it is there- 
fore presumed to be a shy bearer. 

Bland's Virginian will not ripen at the north. 

Elsinburgh is too small to be worthy of cultivation. 



42 CULTUEE OF THE GEAPE. 

The Ohio grape is tender, and, at the north, requires 
the same protection as foreign kinds ; the bunches are 
large and long, but the berries very small. 

The vineyard cultivation of the native varieties of 
the grape, in the United States, is attracting more at- 
tention yearly. On the banks of the Ohio River, the 
planting is increasing rapidly, and, on the hills near 
Reading, Pa., are vineyards for the purpose of making 
wine. 

At the latter place, the vines are pruned and tied to 
stakes, after the European method. 

Dr. Underwood has a vineyard on the Hudson, 
where he raises large quantities of the Isabella and 
Catawba for the table, which are sent to the New York 
market for sale. 

H. W. S. Cleveland, Esq., of Burlington, N. J., has 
a vineyard of the Isabella, and is increasing it largely. 



CULTUKE OF THE GEAPE. 



43 




This drawing represents a vine after it has become established, and has 
been planted six or more years, and has been pruned agreeably to these 
directions. The lateral shoots are not represented. 



DIFFERENT SYSTEMS 



OF 



TRAINING AND PRUNING EXPLAINED. 



Hoare's Plan. — After planting, the vine must be 
cut back to two eyes. 

The first year, if more than two shoots push, rub 
the others off, and train the two shoots to the trellis. 
As soon as it appears probable that no accident will 
happen to the strongest of these shoots, cut out the 
other ; this will be about the first of July ; continue to 
secure the shoot to the trellis, from time to time, as it 
grows, pruning in the laterals to one eye. 

In November, cut the vine down again to two eyes. 

The second year, train exactly in the same manner, 
and if any fruit appear, take it off. 

Early in November, cut the vine down to three 
eyes, thus : 




The third year, train up the three shoots, and rub 
out all others ; in July, prune out the weakest one ; 
stop all laterals as before ; continue to train the other 



CULTUEE OF THE GEAPE. 



45 



two carefully during the season. About the first of 
September, pinch off the ends of the shoots. 

In November, cut back the two shoots to seven 
buds each, and prune out carefully all the laterals close 
to the buds. 

The fourth year, early in February, cut out of each 
shoot the first, second, fourth, fifth, and sixth buds ; 
then bend the two shoots carefully down, and secure 
them in a horizontal position, thus : 



?T 



x_ 



3 



T 



3 2 



^7~ 



£ '/">/ 



Train the shoots that push from the eyes three and 
seven in the manner indicated by the dotted lines, and 
if more fruit shows than it is proper for the vine to bear, 
cut it off after the berries have set ; the same treat- 
ment of the vine is to be pursued during the season 
as last year. " 

In September, stop the top of the shoots. 

In October, as soon as the fruit is gathered, cut 
back the first and third shoots to as many buds as 
may be deemed necessary to produce the quantity of 
fruit which the vine can mature the next year, and 
the second and fourth shoots to the lowermost bud, 
each ; cut out the lateral shoots close to the buds. 



46 



CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 



The fifth year, train the two canes in the manner 
represented below, 



H 




H 
± 



and the two shoots, which will push from the spurs 
H, H, train also in the same way. 

The vine has now assumed the form which it is 
permanently to retain, and it may be considered as the 
commencement of a system of alternately fruiting two 
shoots, and of training two, at full length, for bearing 
wood to fruit the following year : which method can be 
continued, without alteration, until the vine is able 
to mature more fruit, when the arms may be extended, 
and as many more upright or bearing canes added as 
are required. 

This plan may do for the Isabella, or other native 
kinds : it might answer on the back trellis of a house, 
but, for the roof, it would not succeed so well, as the 
shoots would occupy too much space. 



CULTUKE OF THE GEAPE. 47 

It is liable to the same objections that all the long 
cane systems of training are. 

The long, or succession mode of pruning is recom- 
mended by Mr. Loudon and many others. It is thus : — 

The first year, one shoot only is allowed to grow, 
which is cut down, at the autumn pruning, to the 
second or third eye. 

The second year, two shoots are encouraged, the 
strongest of which must be stopped three or four buds 
beyond the middle of the roof, the weaker one after 
growing three or four feet. 

At the fall of the leaf, the shoots are to be reduced ; 
the main one must be pruned back to the middle of 
the roof, and the lower one to the third eye. 

The third year, one leading shoot is to be trained in 
from each cane, and, from the main cane, fruit-bearing 
side shoots will be produced; one bunch only on a 
shoot should be retained, and the shoot stopped at one 
or two eyes beyond it. No side shoots should be al- 
lowed to grow from the spur or cane which was cut 
back, the leading shoot from which is to become a 
fruit-bearing cane the next year. 

In November, the shoot from the end of the fruit- 
bearing cane must be cut at the top of the rafters, or 
within a foot of the top, and the shoot from the spur 
must be pruned back to the middle of the rafter, and 
all the spurs that bore the fruit must be pruned out. 

The fourth year, a crop will be produced, both in the 
upper and lower part of the house, the long cane bear- 
ing on the upper part, and the shorter on its whole 



48 



CULTUKE OF THE GRAPE. 



length ; a leading shoot must be trained from the short 
cane, and another, a new cane, from a spur below. 

In pruning, at the fall of the leaf, the long cane 
must be taken entirely away, and replaced by the cane 
that bore the fruit on the lower part; the spurs on 
this must be cut out, as on the cane last year, and the 
new cane brought up this year must be cut back to 
the middle of the rafters ; a spur must be left below 
to lead up a new cane from next year. 

By this system, you have the whole length of rafters 
fruited by two canes, and a third one is to be growing 
for the next year, to supply the place of the one which 
is to be cut out at the fall pruning. 

This is unquestionably the best system of pruning, 
on the long cane principle, and it is explained here by 
a representation of the vine in the successive years. 






a, is the vine after planting. 

b, is the vine cut back at the close of the first year of growth. 

c, is the vine cut back at the close of the second year. 

d, is the vine as it will be, after pruning, at the end of the third year. 

e, shows the vine with the first bearing cane cut out, and pruned for 
fruiting the next year ; every successive year, the long shoot must be cut 
out, and its place supplied as above directed. 



CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 49 

Another system, practised in this country, is, to 
train a new cane, every year, the whole length of the 
rafter, to fruit the successive season ; the cane which 
bore the fruit being pruned back to one eye in No- 
vember. This is more simple than the former plan ; 
but an objection to this, and all other long cane-pruning 
and training is, that it requires the vine to produce 
and ripen a large crop of fruit, and a great extent of 
wood also, every year. The result of this plan would 
be, that, in a few years, the vine would evidently be 
less and less vigorous, and the new cane would be 
constantly growing smaller, until the vine would not 
bear any fruit, when a year of rest would be re- 
quired to enable it to ripen a crop again. By this 
system, you can grow very large bunches of fruit; but 
if it is true, that large bunches are not so good as 
smaller ones, (which I hold to be the fact,) then there 
is no advantage in this. There is no difficulty in 
having a great abundance of fruit show itself, under 
any judicious pruning ; the only fear is, that you will 
leave more on the vine than can be ripened properly, 
and this risk is increased by having very large bunches. 

Another plan is, to have one long cane the length 
required, and to be spurred-pruned, as recommended 
as the best system of pruning, (page 20,) differing 
from that, however, in the cutting of the spur clean 
out, at the fall pruning, and not at one eye, as there 
directed. The reason for preferring to cut at one eye 
is, that, at the base or crown of the spur, are a large 
number of dormant eyes which will all, or a great 
7 



50 CULTUEE OF THE GEAPE. 

many of them, push when close pruning is practised ; 
and, where there are a great number of vines, the 
trouble of rubbing out these is considerable ; but when 
one eye on the spur pushes, it will prevent these from 
growing ; and if, at any time, the eye, from injury, does 
not push, then the dormant eyes will, and you can re- 
tain a shoot, and when this system of pruning has been 
carried out many years, and the spur becomes too 
long for convenience, or unsightly, then you can train 
one of the shoots that are constantly pushing on the 
bare wood of the spur, and prune back on that, in the 
autumn, to one eye. 

Another plan of spur-pruning, which is recom- 
mended to be practised, when the object desired is 
to grow large bunches, and the regularity and neat- 
ness of the vine are not considered, is to prune the 
shoot at any length, cutting so as to leave a full, 
strong eye at the end, for fruiting ; all the intervening 
eyes, excepting the one at the base, are to be pruned 
out ; this is to be grown for fruiting the next season, 
and is to be pruned, at the autumn trimming, at 
the prominent eye ; the shoot which has fruited, 
and all the back wood on the spur, should be cut out 
entirely. 

Still another method of spur-pruning, when the ob- 
ject is large bunches, as above, is to have four or five 
spurs only, on each side of the cane, fruiting, each 
year, the alternate spur ; the cane on every other spur 
is to be pruned back to one eye, and the alternate 
cane to two or three feet, and five or six bunches al- 



CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 



51 



lowed to ripen on each; the 
cane which ripened the crop 
the first year must now, at 
the fall pruning, be cut back 
to one eye, and the cane which 
is to fruit the coming season 
should be pruned to two or 
three feet. 

These are several of the 
most approved and generally 
adopted systems of training 
the grape. Whatever method 
is used should be persevered 
in for several years ; constantly 
changing from one system to 
another is bad, and the result 
will be unsatisfactory. 

If the border has been well 
made, and the vines have 
never been overcropped, and 
the temperature of the house, 
with the thinning of the ber- 
ries, and summer pruning of 
the shoots have been prop- 
erly attended to, crops of 
fine grapes can be had from 
vines pruned in any of the 
methods described. The plan 
recommended in page 20, is 
considered the most simple, 




a, are the fruiting spurs. 
b) the spurs on which the shoots 
are growing for the next year. 



52 CULTUEE OF THE GKAPE. 

and the one taxing the vine the least of any to ripen 
additional wood ; it is easily kept within narrow limits, 
giving ample room for the light to be admitted. 

In the best vineyards, where the richest wines are 
made, they limit the crop a plant may bear to a small 
number of bunches, usually from eight to twenty-five 
in number, and in weight to from ten to twenty 
pounds ; in some parts of France, where they plant 
the vines very close, to a much smaller quantity. 

At Xeres, in Spain, the sherry wine district, two or 
three mother branches are trained up with one spur 
on each to fruit, and the vines are planted five feet 
apart each way. The crop is limited to eight or nine 
bunches, weighing about fourteen or sixteen pounds. 

At other vineyards in Spain, where poor wines are 
made, the vine is allowed to bear twenty-five or thirty 
pounds. 

In the vicinity of Malaga, where the Muscat of 
Alexandria grape is grown for the purpose of making 
raisins, they prune close to the old wood every autumn, 
and the plant is kept close to the surface of the soil, 
which is a rotten slate ; the shoots are not tied up, but 
hang, or lie upon the earth. The fruit also lies on the 
ground, and, if it were not so gravelly, it would rot ; 
the average yield, per vine, here, is from seven to fif- 
teen pounds ; this grape makes the best, or Muscadel 
raisin. The grape from which the Bloom raisin is 
made is an inferior kind, and the grape of commerce 
a still more ordinary one ; these are grown in the in- 
terior, and the vines are allowed to ripen from ten to 
twenty-five pounds. 



CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 53 

Near Perpignan, in France, the vine is trimmed at 
about six inches from the ground ; from the spurs, at 
this height, the bearing shoots proceed, and are not 
supported at all ; the close spur-pruning is followed ; 
from three to eight spurs are allowed on a vine, ac- 
cording to its age and strength. 

Near Marseilles, they sometimes prune to three 
eyes on a spur, and each vine is allowed to bear from 
eight to twelve bunches, or from twelve to twenty 
pounds. 

At the vineyards that produce the fine wine called 
Hermitage, the plants are only two and a half feet 
apart, and are two feet high, supported with stakes 
five feet long ; only one branch is allowed to fruit, and 
this is pruned back to from three to eight eyes, and 
from eight to ten bunches is the average crop. 

At the vineyards which produce the Burgundy wine, 
the plants are grown yet closer together. The rows 
of vines are only two and a half feet apart, and 
the plants in the rows are only twelve or fifteen 
inches. After the vines have been three years 
planted, the space between the rows is filled up with 
vines, making the distance between the plants only 
fifteen inches. 

At the vineyards of Epernay and Ay, where the 
Champaigne wine is made, the vines are, in the rows, 
planted as near together as six or seven inches, and 
the distance between the rows is only eight or 
nine. Of course, the vines are feeble, and produce 
but a small quantity of fruit each ; the shoots are also 
very small and weak, but the vines being so close 



54 CULTUEE OF THE GEAPE. 

together, the general aggregate of fruit produced is 
large. 

At the vineyards on the banks of the Rhine, the 
vines are supported by stakes five or six feet long ; 
this is the case, generally, in the vineyard culture of 
the grape in France. The spur-pruning is usually 
adopted. 

In Italy, also, the same system is generally employed. 
By the road sides, the long cane-pruning is practised in 
the following manner. A vine is trained up the trunk 
of a tree, and, at the height of twelve or fifteen feet, 
a long cane of the vine is led from this tree to 
another and secured; these canes, hanging in fes- 
toons, present a beautiful appearance when the fruit 
is in perfection. 

In the Azores, the vines are not supported by stakes ; 
usually a small pile of stones encircle the plant, and 
the bearing shoots lay on these. The Muscats, and 
other choice kinds which are grown expressly for the 
table, are generally trained upon a trellis. 

Vines, in the open air, are more free from mildew 
when trained quite high or very low. 

In villages on the continent of Europe, it is com- 
mon to see, in the principal streets, the vine trained 
on the houses, above the lower windows, about twelve 
feet from the ground ; a great quantity of fruit is thus 
produced at little expense ; the roots running under 
the pavement of the street. 

The kinds grown are usually the small black 
sorts, similar to the Early Black July, and Miller's 
Burgundy. 



CULTUKE OF THE GKAPE. 

The following is the manner of training. 



55 




The pruning is on the short spur system. 

It should be borne in mind, that the larger the crop 
a vine is allowed to bear, the longer will be the time 
required to mature the fruit, and the quality of which 
will also be deteriorated in proportion to its amount. 

The native varieties of the grape, when planted in 
a soil naturally dry and suitable, will do well without 
a prepared border; but, as a general rule, it must be 
remembered that the more care there is bestowed on 
the preparation of this, the greater will be the chance 
of success. 

The Black Hamburgh grape, when well cultivated, 
is a richer fruit in this climate than in that of Eng- 
land, and it is necessary to test the quality of the 
foreign kinds here, as the experience of European 
cultivators does not always coincide with our own. 




000 918 647 5 



